it was a sunny morning,
the city was buzzing,
and she had a thousand
things on her mind.
–
she let the city streets,
pulsing veins of life,
carry her,
unimportant where
they would take her,
because more than ever
she felt
that it was not the aim,
but the way that mattered.
–
it was this,
that made her feel alive,
that made her take another breath
and as long as each morning
the city reached out to the sun,
she would stand her point.
–
I have written far more than a dozen poems like this, all about the spirit, my fascination with the city I was born at, Berlin. To me, this is far more than a travel guide to the city, that is the home of my heart. This is a love letter and deep ‘thank you’ to Berlin. A city, that repeatedly welcomes me as a stranger each morning. A city, you can be a nobody in. A city, where a native can choose to wander the streets anew every day, pretending to be a tourist, and still find something unknown each time. A city, where the whole world melts into one home. A city, with scars so deep, you cannot move without tumbling over yet another gravestone. A city, where slow and rushed lives co-exist. A city, you can fall for so hard for in a day without noticing, you cannot help but wish you’d be able to stay awhile.
But enough now with the rambling, let’s jump right in for those of you, who are in a rush to make travel plans for the summer. The plan is the following – I will first introduce you to some of my favorite coffee shops and english bookshops in Berlin. Additional to that, I will then describe to you a short route for a stroll through the very center of the city, that I go on at least every few weeks. It indeed includes some typical sights, but that isn’t really the point of it. In my opinion, when you take your time (the distance is actually really short) you will be able to sight and feel that particular spirit of Berlin. How it has that buzz and business, how you get swallowed up in a crowd of all the strangers of locals and tourists and easily become nobody and yet could be anybody, how multicultural it is, how many things there are to see, how there is always a place to rest at, how green and how great it’s architecture is. Every time I go on that walk I feel all of that all at once and I fall head over heels for Berlin all over again. It moves me so deeply, sometimes, when I’m in the right mood, I get so overwhelmed by a feeling of admiration I’m close to tears. Nothing makes me feel more like I truly belong than when I am on that stroll through the city …and here we are again, drifting off into prose-like rambling. I promise, I’m actually starting now.
– Favorite Coffee Shops –
Books and Bagels is both a coffee shop and english bookshop. It’s only a few train-stops from Alexanderplatz and my personal favorite of them all. It’s absolutely international and multicultural. The staff is incredibly kind, obliging and fluent in english. Prices are pretty fair – a latte is usually 3.10€ and a cappuccino 2.90€. It’s open from 8am–8pm, except for Sunday, when it opens an hour later. Shakespeare and Sons / Books and Bagels is located at Warschauer Str. 71 in 10243 Berlin. Additional to coffee they have a wide range of all kinds of Bagels and excellent pastries (recently they often have a gluten free chocolate cake and it is absolute heaven). They also often have carrot cake, great cheese cake or Chocolate Chunk Fleur de Sel Cookies. The atmosphere is simply breath-taking. At Books and Bagels you can enjoy great pastries and bagels, coffee or tea, sitting in the middle of hundreds of books.
Café Neundrei is a coffee shop very close to the train stop Hackescher Markt. At first sight it looks quite small, but there is a staircase leading into an extremely cozy basement. There are several tables, candles, a couch, plants, pillows and armchairs. The cappuccinos are absolutely excellent. But really special here are the pastries. They are all baked by the staff, look and taste stunning, just google and you’ll find a ton of photos. Café Neundrei also has great smoothie bowls and sandwiches. It’s open Monday to Saturday from 8am–6pm, closed on Sunday. The staff is very kind too. Café Neundrei is located at Monbijoupl. 2 in 10178 Berlin. Overall very great place for a cozy break with a good cup of coffee and special pastries.
Pure Origins has two locations at the center of Berlin. One is near the train stop Hackescher Markt and one near the train stop Friedrichstraße. Both are unique though. The one at Friedrichstraße is usually much busier, but they have great lunch options. A daily soup offer, avocado toast, scrambled eggs and different salad bowls. They have good coffee, pastries and sandwiches too. The one near Hackescher Markt is freshly renovated and has a very modern and dark interior design with a lot of wood, naked light bulbs and many plants. The staff is extremely nice and the place is usually not crowded at all. The one near Hackescher Markt is located at Litfaß-Platz 3 in 10178 Berlin and the one near Friedrichstraße is located at Georgenstraße 193 in 10117 Berlin. The latter one is open from 7am–10pm and the first one from 8am–8pm on weekdays and 9am–7pm on weekends.
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Zeit für Brot is the place to get about a dozen different kinds of cinnamon rolls and all kinds of fresh bread. It’s a bakery / coffee shop close to the train stop Eberswalder Straße. Friendly staff, bright place. Lots of windows and natural light, white walls, plants. Usually pretty busy though. But the cinnamon rolls truly are one of a kind. They’re available with white chocolate, pecan nuts and maple syrup, cherries, marzipan, chocolate, poppy seeds and many many more. They’re always fresh and soft. It’s open 7am–8pm weekdays and from 8am–8pm on Saturday, from 8am–6pm on Sundays. Zeit für Brot is located at Eberswalder Straße 26 in 10435 Berlin.
Funk You is kind of a coffee shop / smoothie place. They have a lot of healthy options for lunch. Poached eggs on Avocado Toast for example. The smoothies are all excellent and the staff friendly. It’s a pretty small place, but very beautiful. White walls, lots of plants. White tables in the front and other tables and couches in the back. The coffee is good too. Sometimes it’s very busy, but other times rather empty. Prices are a little higher than usual, but the food and drinks are absolutely excellent. They’re located at Rosenthaler Straße 23 in 10119 Berlin and open 9am–8pm from Monday to Saturday and 12pm–6pm on Sundays.
The House of Small Wonder is a little wonder itself. It is a kind of coffee shop / brunch place with a bit of Japanese inspired kitchen. Just walking around the city, you probably wouldn’t notice this place. Most of the customers find out about it through bloggers on the internet, so it’s still highly crowded! Sometimes, you will have to wait in line for a table. To prevent that, just make sure you’re there when it opens at 9am, then there shouldn’t be any waiting time (I did that the two times I’ve been there and never had to wait for a table). What’s funny is, that when you enter, you don’t directly enter the restaurant. You enter a small room with lots of plants and a staircase heading up, leading to the actual place. The entrance is a very popular photography location among bloggers though, but then again, it really is stunning. Another tip- make sure to not just pick a table as soon as you’re upstairs. You’re seated in this place. Why I went there in the first place was a certain dish- House of Small Wonder has something called “French-toasted croissants” and it’s exactly what it sounds like. It’s just as delicious, served with fruit, some whipped cream and maple syrup. The coffee is excellent too. They even serve a little pitcher with syrup to sweeten iced coffee, which is something I’ve never seen anywhere before. The House of Small Wonder is located at Johannisstraße 20 in 10117 Berlin, near the train stop Friedrichstraße. It’s open 9am–5pm every day.
– Favorite (English) Bookshops –
You’ve probably already heard about Dussmann in Berlin. It’s very close to the train stop Friedrichstraße and a giant building with four floors. You can buy DVDs, CDs, comics, graphic novels, all kinds of stationery, thousands of german books of any genre, books in almost any other language, some kind of fan stuff, travel guides and educational / textbooks there. There are lots of areas where you can take a seat on chairs or a couch. The English Bookshop has a whole little two-story area for itself and it’s pretty easy to find: when you enter through the big main entrance, just walk straight ahead to the other end of the building. The entrance to the English Bookshop is on the right. Novels and Crime / Mystery are downstairs. Young Adult, Fantasy, Poetry, Classics, Kids, Biographies, Lifestyle and Comics / Graphic Novels are upstairs. Prices are a little higher than usual here though. Dussmann is located at Friedrichstraße 90 in 10117 Berlin and open from 9am–12am weekdays, 9am–11:30pm on Saturdays.
Saint George’s English Bookshop is a mostly used / secondhand english bookshop and absolutely perfect if you feel like digging around a bit for a while. The atmosphere is very cozy and the staff incredibly helpful and friendly. Prices are really low, even though most of the books are in perfect shape. Couches make this place even more relaxing. Saint George’s English Bookshop is located at Wörther Straße 27 in 10405 Berlin and open from 11am–8pm weekdays and 11am–7pm on Saturdays.
Since I’ve already talked about Books and Bagels as a coffee shop, I won’t say too much again here now. There are all kinds of book genres available, all english books. There is even a not too small section of secondhand / used books in the back of the shop. Prices are higher than usual, except for the used books. The atmosphere is great, aside from the books and the nice staff, the smell of coffee and pastries adds a beautiful touch. For opening hours and address, just scroll back up.
– My Favorite Wandering-Through-The-City-Route –
I start my walk either at the train stop Friedrichstraße or Alexanderplatz. I’m going to describe the version where I start at Friedrichstraße in the following. You should exit the station to the side on which Dussmann is located. When you exited on the correct side of the station you should be able to see this looking straight ahead, when the station is to your left.
Turn so that the station is now behind you and walk straight ahead until you pass Dussmann on your left side. Go inside. Take a stroll around. After that, continue into the direction you were headed before until you arrive at a big road with at least four lanes. Turn left and follow the street for a while. You will pass one of Berlins biggest universities, the Humboldt Universität. It will be on your left side and looks like this.
If you want to, have a look inside. Or just dig around in the secondhand books offered in front of it’s gates. Also keep your eyes peeled for street art here. Sometimes there is a painting on the floor. Always continue to keep straight on. Admire the beautiful architecture all around you. Eventually you will arrive at a bridge. Cross it and look around yourself. You have arrived at the Museums Island. If you want to, take a seat on one of the benches under the trees or on the grass. Turn left after the bridge and walk alongside the water until you arrive at the next small road. This is what you should see.
Cross the street and turn right. You should be walking in an outside corridor like this and seeing this to your right. This is my favorite place at the whole city. Look around yourself. Take a break on the grass to your left. Admire the architecture. Listen to what it sounds like. Is there a street musician performing nearby? A violin? A trumpet? Can you hear the birds chirping? People chatting? What hue does the light have? Is it golden yet? What are the people doing around you? Can you spot a blogger doing a fashion shoot somewhere close by? Are there any students reading on the grass? Anyone having lunch? Is there a turkish wedding having a photoshoot? A class waiting in line to visit the Alte Nationalgalerie? Listen and look. This is Berlin through and through.
Keep straight on until you find yourself on another bridge. Cross it. You should be able to see this, when you turn your head to the right. There are lots of tours by boat you can take around the city from here. Wave to a boat passing. Passengers love that. We natives do it all the time. People will wave back.
Turn right immediately after crossing the bridge and keep straight on until you reach a road, then turn left again. Walk straight on without crossing any streets until you get to a huge crossroads. Turn right and cross the street. Then immediately turn left and cross another street. You should be very close to the television tower now. You should be able to spot, or at least hear, a fountain, the Neptune’s fountain, close by, after crossing the street. Go there. This is what it should look like. Have a seat on one of the benches and watch the water glistening in the sun. Watch the people. The children running around, splashing around in the water. Tourists taking a hundred photos in different poses.
Turn your back on the fountain and walk straight on in the direction of the television tower and the station Alexanderplatz. There you go, you’ve reached the final destination of this walk. I hope you liked it as much as I do and feel like you got to know the spirit of Berlin a little better. In case you still want to see more of Berlin, check out this or this one of my YouTube videos or any other one basically. I always share a ton of clips of the city there. Be safe! Pay attention to pickpockets on this walk. Have a good trip. And maybe, just maybe, with a lot of luck, you might as well just walk into me on this walk, since I go on it that often. In case you actually do, please say Hi, I’d love to give you a hug for being here.
Lots of love from Berlin, Anna Xx